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Splendor mody

Hubert Kołodziejski: ,,Luksus jest ukryty.”

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Hubert absolwent Międzynarodowej Szkoły Kostiumografii i Projektowania Ubioru. Nieprzeciętny ilustrator mody oraz obiecujący, młody projektant. Nagrodzony i wyróżniony jako jeden z najbardziej utalentowanych dyplomantów (dyplomowa kolekcja męska MONST R) oraz doceniony przez Diane Pernet, światową promotorkę filmów modowych. Zwycięzca warsztatów- Art & Fashion Forum organizowanych przez Grażynę Kulczyk. Prawdę odnajduje w tym, co nienamacalne, ukryte. Nie lubi sztuczności i pozerstwa. Nie spotkacie go na targach, czy w showroomach. Indywidualista konceptualny, czy innowacyjny projektant, a może powinien być inspiracją dla przyszłych projektantów? Polsko, czy jesteś gotowa na Huberta?

– W Polsce jest tego mało, a mężczyźni coraz bardziej interesują się modą. Moda męska wciąż nie jest na takim poziomie, na jakim być powinna, ale idzie w dobrym kierunku. Chciałbym przyczynić się do tego, by tak było.

– Twój pokaz dyplomowy jest jak z pogranicza ,,androgeniczni modele vs mroczne kreacje”?

– Jedno nie wyklucza drugiego. Pozorne przeciwieństwa są interesujące. Fascynują mnie subkultury. Eksperymentuję.

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– Inspirujesz się filmem, z mocnym naciskiem na horrory. Czy jest coś jeszcze?

– Film to fikcja. Ja chcę odkrywać prawdę. Historia mi w tym pomaga. Inspiracją do stworzenia mojej kolekcji dyplomowej była też książka o zwyczajach i obrzędach plemiennych, która ukazywała paradoksalnie niepojęte rytuały, jako coś swoistego w danej kulturze. Mowa tu o wydłużaniu czaszki poprzez zwoje miedzianego drutu. Dawniej, modyfikowanie swojego ciała w podobny sposób było popularne w wielu plemionach, w różnych częściach świata. Ludzie chcieli się wyróżniać za wszelką cenę. Na długo pozostaniemy imitatorami sztuki. Nie ma złotego środka na bycie innowacyjnym jak tylko zgłębianie tajników historii.

– Jak napisał Marcin Różyc na łamach K MAG o kolekcji MONST R- (…) mroczne rzeźby, w których odnaleźć można motywy sado-maso i styl rebeliancki, nawiązania do japońskiej awangardy i elementy mody historycznej, a także fragmenty odzieży ochronnej. A jak Ty definiujesz modę, którą tworzysz?

– Moda jest uniwersalna. Nie chcę generalizować, ani przyporządkowywać etykiet moim odbiorcom. Chcę, żeby była polem do poszukiwań i odkryć. Chcę tworzyć prawdziwą, namacalną sztukę, która oddziałuje na wszystkie zmysły. Dlatego eksperymentuję, a tkaniny są moim narzędziem.

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– Niektórzy chcą przyporządkować Ci formę. Jak pisał Gombrowicz ,,przyprawić o gębę”. Czy brak konkretnego stylu może stanowić o wyjątkowości twórcy?

– Nie lubię powtarzania i powielania tych samych schematów. Moja percepcja rzeczywistości ewoluuje, dlatego nie mam ograniczeń i dobrze mi z tym. Załóżmy, że można od razu wyrobić sobie rozpoznawalny styl i kurczowo się go trzymać, można też eksperymentować i definiować się na nowo co sezon. Bliżej mi to tego drugiego.

– Co w zawodzie projektanta czyni go niezależnym?

– Z pewnością kreatywność. Umiejętność rysowania czy szycia to za mało w tej branży. Potrafię ale nie lubię szyć. Pozostawiam to profesjonalistom, dla których szycie jest całym światem i kształcili się w tym fachu latami. Oprócz projektowania, chcę podążać w kierunku grafiki. Wyobraźnia jest moim największym darem losu.

– W jaki sposób chcesz wpływać na ludzkie umysły?

– Bycie projektantem zobowiązuje do wierności wobec sztuki. Projektant jest częścią kultury. Nie chcę, żeby identyfikowano mnie ze złem, czy szokowaniem. Chcę wywierać wrażenie. Życie jest zbyt krótkie, by nosić nudne rzeczy.

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– Kto jest dla Ciebie inspiracją?

– To trudne pytanie, bo takich osób jest wiele. Nie będę oryginalny i wymienię Mcqueena i Isabellę Blow. Ostatnimi czasy inspiruję się kulturą rosyjską w połączeniu z kulturą macho w wydaniu androgenicznych mężczyzn.

– Wpływy gender to coś co często pojawia się na wybiegach, ale rzadko w Polsce. Uwarunkowania kulturowe, czy polityczne mają zatem duży wpływ na modę?

– Nie skupiam się na tym. Chciałbym aby moda była ponad podziałami. Sztuka według mnie nie ma absolutnie żadnych barier, a w każdym razie nie powinna ich mieć.

– Jaka jest Twoja ideologia?

– Świadome kupowanie jest luksusem. Znam wiele marek, które uważają się za luksusowe, a wcale nimi nie są. Świadomość to pewna idea. Ktoś, kto chce kupić moje ubrania ponosi trud odszukania mnie. Nie jest to łatwe. Nie mam ani swojego butiku, ani strony, a mieszkam niemalże na końcu świata. To co tworzę kieruję do ludzi, z naciskiem na człowieka i jego potrzeby. Chcę, żeby czuli się wyjątkowo nosząc moje ubrania. Luksus jest czymś co nosimy w swoim umyśle, przeświadczenie o wyjątkowym pochodzeniu danej rzeczy.

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